If you are getting a less-than-5 meter strip, you'll probably want one plug and receptacle set to make it easy to connect and disconnect. If you want to connect to the output, use the receptacle cable. If you want to connect to the input of a 5 meter cable (to wire it to power and a microcontroller) please use the plug connector. To wire up these strips we suggest picking up some JST SM plug and receptacle cables. In this project, however, I’m using common cathodes and N-Channel. If you intend to work on RGB LED projects seriously, I suggest you stick to the common anode ones and ditch common cathodes, as all the LED drivers work only with the former. This is more efficient than connecting them all in parallel since the same current can power three LEDs rather than only one. If you buy less than 5m, you'll get a single strip, but it will be a cut piece from a reel which may or may not have a connector on it. Common cathode RGB LED + N-Channel MOSFET + HC238 - Common anode RGB LED + P-Channel MOSFET + HC138. These strips are sold by the meter! If you buy 5m at a time, you'll get full reels with two connectors. They come in 5 meter reels with a 4-pin JST SM connector on each end. Of course, you can also connect strips together to make them longer, just watch how much current you need! We have a 5V/2A supply that should be able to drive 1 or more meters (depending on use), a 5V 4A for a couple meters, and a 5V/10A supply that can drive 5+ meters (or more, if you are not lighting up all the LEDs at once) You must use a 5V DC power supply to power these strips, do not use higher than 6V or you will destroy the entire strip Solder to the 0.1" copper pads and you're good to go. You can cut this stuff pretty easily with wire cutters, there are cut-lines every 1.6"/ 41mm (2 LEDs each). the motorcycle blinkers arent really any brighter than the LED strips the. The strip is made of flexible PCB material, and comes with a weatherproof sheathing. Connect your anode pin of LED light with Pin no 13 of Arduino ( You can use. Once you set the brightness level for the LEDs, your microcontroller can go off and do other things, no need to continuously update it, or clock it. The LPD8806 chip has built in 1.2 MHz high speed 7-bit PWM for each channel - that means it can do 21-bit color per LED (way more than the eye can easily discern). The PWM is built into each chip so once you set the color you can stop talking to the strip and it will continue to PWM all the LEDs for you. Only 2 digital output pins are required to send data down. In general, common anode LEDs are more popular, as NFET can sink more current than PFET can source in the same area, so a smaller size driver for common anode LEDs can be used for the same current. For common cathode RGB LEDs, a current source LED driver is necessary. The LEDs are controlled by shift-registers that are chained up down the strip so you can shorten or lengthen the strip. For common anode RGB LEDs, a current-sink LED driver must be used. You can set the color of each LED's red, green and blue component with 7-bit PWM precision (so 21-bit color per pixel). There are 48 RGB LEDs per meter, and you can control each LED individually! Yes, that's right, this is the digitally-addressable type of LED strip.
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